Saturday, September 5, 2009

Pondicherry - or was it Gingee trip?

Pre-requisites for applying for a bus drivers’ job:
1. Should have been an inmate of a mental asylum for at least 6 months
2. Should drive above 60 kmph no matter what the road conditions
3. Should drive only on the right side of the road
4. Should always overtake every possible vehicle on the road, doesn’t matter from which side
5. Should give heart attacks to at least 25 drivers of the oncoming vehicles
6. Should force the drivers of the oncoming vehicles off the road

A biker in his blog had written that one can find everything on the road that is not supposed to be there and I did not believe it until I myself experienced it. The roads were good except in patches but the driving experience was far from enjoyable and relaxing. The scorching heat to add to it made matters worse. Having to push my bike for almost 2 kms in this scorching heat… well… you can imagine.

Pondicherry was the destination for 29th and 30th August weekend. Leaving at 5.00 am in the morning brought with it the expectation of not finding much traffic. A few lorries and tankers had other ideas. A stunning Sunrise gave rise to hopes of a wonderful day ahead.

The turn towards Pondicherry was soon after taking a left after Krishnagiri. A few bird calls reached our ears while cruising along this road. On inspection we saw a few babblers. The call was not that of babblers though. Quietly tip toeing into the thickets brought into view a few small green billed Malkohas. What a sight it was. Unfortunately could not get a shot of it though the camera was ready in the hands. Another unidentified bird has given a few sleepless nights.

Breakfast at Chengam gave the much required energy to continue the journey towards Tiruvannamalai. The hill and the temple were visible from a distance. After a pleasant experience in the temple in Lepakshi it was time for some reality. The priests demanding money as dakshina destroyed whatever little feelings of devotion existed. The long wait in the queue and the pushing and jostling to get darshan of Lord Arunachaleshwar is what remains in memory. Instead it should have been the huge premises of the temple, the towering towers, the innumerable number of pillars inside, the vast spaces inside the temple compound and the Shivling itself. It takes all kinds to make this world they say.

From the cool climes of Bangalore to the scorching heat was not expected. Being monsoon time some amount of rain was expected but it was not to be. Water, tender coconuts and soft drinks were to become our saviors for two days.

Gingee soon beckoned. There are three forts on three hills; the Rajagiri fort (the King’s fort), Krishnagiri fort (the Queen’s fort) and Chandragiri fort (the Cobbler’s fort). We turned right from the main road having decided to climb Rajagiri fort first. The Kalyana Mahal, it’s white and height caught the eyes. It was used as a stable. It has a series of cells.


Proceeding towards the fort I parked my bike under a tree where a person collected money and issued a parking ticket. The entrance ticket costs Rs.5 per person. As in most places the rates for Indians and foreigners is different. Somehow this concept has never held water for me. Just because a person is from another country why do these people charge them 10 times the amount or some times even 20 times the amount they charge for Indians?

As soon as one enters the main gate a view of an almost non existent palace greets the visitors. A stone platform with a stone pillow is the only reminder of the palace. The sprawling space does compel one to try and imagine what must have been.

A gymnasium, magazine (a place where the arms and ammunitions were stored), granary have withstood the test of time though. Walking into the granary one will begin to wonder how much grains must have been stored here. It also begs one to ask questions how those people managed it. A circular hole in the roof cast a circle of light on the floor. It is difficult to explain the nice feeling of awe it evoked.

The Sun beating down mercilessly raised doubts about being able to reach the top of the fort. Soldiering on bravely we were glad we did not give up. We were treated to some magnificent views. The Kalyana Mahal, Krishnagiri fort, a temple, a mosque partly hidden, green fields, the roads and hills all around energize the climbers.


A baby monkey clinging on to its mother as it sat with another monkey was a lovely sight. The look of peace and contentment on the face of the baby monkey with its eyes closed is better seen than explained with words.

Feeling drained and burned out we sat down on a few steps only to realize there is a temple just ahead. There was another temple along the way. What catches the eyes here are two Ganesha idols on either side of the entrance. Three tridents (Thrishuls) stood just behind a huge circular stone resting on a square stone platform. Sadly there was no one to explain the significance of these.

The view of the green fields and the trees certainly helps one to climb on such a sweltering hot day. A treasury mantapam can be seen after reaching the top. All that remains is an almost dilapidated structure of stone pillars with a roof on it. Closing my eyes I tried to imagine the treasurer sitting somewhere in this structure and distributing money. Hmmm… money

Having spent some time sitting here we decided to start climbing down. Our bodies were screaming for some cold fluids. In spite of that it was just not possible to not stop at a canon that stood proudly. How many times must it have fired? How many times had it saved this fort and how many times had it failed to protect the inhabitants of this fort?

Intriguingly shaped rocky hill instigates one to conjure up images while passing by. I could see human faces and wondered what else one can imagine by looking at these shapes.

Finally the torturous, energy zapping, fluid sapping climb came to an end. We ran as fast as we could… well make that crawled as fast as we could…. towards a man selling cold drinks. His name was Selvaraj. Sipping on the cold drink I tried conversing with this man in my broken tamil. (I can assure you it is as broken as it can get). This man, from a neighboring village, was afflicted by polio and yet here he was selling cold drinks. He gave us information about the forts and talked to us generally. His smiling demeanor and his zeal to live life fully warmed the cockles of my heart.

As if the arduous climb in the scorching Sun was not enough a disaster awaited us. The rear wheel of my bike was punctured. How it happened was a mystery. The person guarding the vehicles informed me there was a puncture shop on the main road just a little ahead. Left with no choice but to push the 140+ Kgs of metal I began my slow walk towards the puncture shop. An autorickshaw driver asked me what happened. On being told that the tyre was punctured he asked if I had been to the Gingee fort. To my affirmative answer he said that it was the people at the two wheeler stand who must have done it. Completely drained and limbs screaming from the strenuous work out they were getting, I could only muster up a mild rage. After coming back to Bangalore another friend told me that it was a common practice which he thought had stopped. What could have been a good experience was now pretty close to being a nightmare.

The just a little ahead was close to 2 kms. I could hardly stand as the boy set about the task of patching the puncture in the tyre. Plopping down in a chair I was literally gasping for breath. When my friend brought a cold bottle of water and a cold pepsi I could only manage a few gulps. Anybody who wants to visit Gingee fort on their bikes, please don’t park near the Rajagiri fort entrance.

The delay at Tiruvannamalai temple, the climb to the top of the Rajagiri fort in the scorching heat and then the puncture upset our schedule completely. According to the original plan we should have reached Pondicherry latest by 4.00 pm. I can hardly remember anything other than the scary bus drivers and the dustbowl roads for the rest of the journey towards Pondicherry. It was past 7.30 pm when we finally reached Pondicherry. It was a sinking feeling to realize that the YHAI hostel where I had booked a room was another 16 kms away. Having had lunch as late as 5.00 pm and the completely draining experiences left just enough energy for a bath and crashing onto the bed for the night.

An early morning visit to the beach was planned. Alas…it was not to be. Tiredness induced sleep kept me in bed till late. Cuddalore beach was abou t 4 kms from the youth hostel. So we decided to have breakfast and see the beach before heading back to Pondicherrry. It was a nice breakfast at Ananda Bhavan. We reached the beach after asking around for directions.

A lovely sight greeted us. A family of four was at the beach enjoying the sea waves. The father was encouraging the son and daughter to fall down on the sand to allow the waves to take them to the shore. Mother stood on the beach watching her children play. They kept throwing the beach ball into the water and would run to get it. It was wonderful to see what was happening.

Having spent some time on the beach we decided to head back to Pondicherry. The question was now to whether visit the beach or the Ashram. We also wanted to visit Auroville. We also knew that we didn’t have time for all of it. Only one was possible. Finally we decided to visit Auroville. On Sundays the place is closed for visitors in the afternoon. Barely half an hour was available when we reached the Visitor’s centre. Having collected the pass we hurried towards the Matrimandir. It is a truly magnificent sight, the Matrimandir.

We sat down for some time under the more than 100 years old banyan tree and watched people from all part of the world. Within a few minutes the place was almost empty and we knew we had to start our journey back to Bangalore.

On our onward journey we had been unable to take photos of the hill behind the Arunachaleshwar temple. So we stopped and took photos. Just as we left the town of Tiruvannamalai Rain Goddess decided we had had too much of Sun and she came pouring down. Within a couple of minutes the downpour was so heavy that the road, just a few feet away, was not even visible. Sitting inside the small roadside hotel we waited patiently.

After almost an hour the rain abated and we started back knowing fully well that we would have to drive in total darkness. As if to compensate for the delay and the troubles we had during the trip we were treated to a very B-E-A-utiful Sunset.

Finally Bangalore greeted us and we stopped at the Anekal cross for a late dinner. We finally reached home bringing the curtains down on yet another weekend of adventure.

To view all the photos from this trip Click Here

1 comment:

  1. Nice writeup as usual. Seeing the sunset must have made u feel good inspite of facing all the difficulties earlier in the day

    ReplyDelete