Agumbe - Heaven on earth

Agumbe is a small village located in Thirthahalli taluk, Shimoga district in Karnataka. Snugly nestled in the Western Ghats (Malnad region) this village is famous for more than one reason. It receives the second highest annual rainfall in India, next only to Cherrapunji; hence the sobriquet “Cherrapunji of the South”. The Sunset view point, at a height of 825 mts above sea level, is world famous and attracts visitors from all over.

Western Ghats is considered as one of the bio-diversity hotspots of the world. Agumbe, being located in the Western Ghats, more than justifies that tag. Many new species of flora and fauna have been discovered here. The place infact lends it’s name to some of them discovered and they include plants, shrubs, fungus, a fly and a spider. Just as an example the spider has been named Selenops agumbensis. A few other plants and a beetle too have been discovered here which have been named agumbensis. That should be an indication enough to the bio-diversity richness of this place.

Agumbe has the distinction of being the only location in India which can boast of a permanent rainforest research station. Established by the well known herpetologist Mr. Romulus Whitaker, the research station has a main goal of studying and conserving rainforests of South India. Mr. Whitaker, in 1970s, spotted the King Cobra here in this area and hence uses it as the flagship species for his research station.

Add to this a Medicinal plants conservation area established in the year 1999. There are as many as 182 plant species here identified as medicinal out of 371. Sadly some of them are red listed, meaning they are endangered.

Is it even possible to forget the… Oh!!! so lovable Swamy of “Malgudi days”, a teleserial which became a household name. This teleserial, directed by Shankar Nag, was shot in none other than this very place.

If I were to dig a little more I am sure I can find many more wonderful things about this truly bewitching beauty of the Western Ghats. However, with reluctance I now proceed towards recounting my latest trip to Agumbe.

I haven’t even mentioned anything about the bevy of waterfalls in and around Agumbe and that is what compelled us to visit this place. Kunchikal falls, Barkana falls, Kudlu teertha, Jogi gundi, Onake Abbi falls, Jomlu teertha and a host of others including the ones which have not been named.

The plan was to visit as many of these as possible. Despite it being November the un-seasonal rains threatened to upset our plans and they did. The richness of this place is such that inspite of not being able to stick to our plans we had a truly memorable time. Let me now get down to the specifics of the trip.

14th and 15th November, 2009 were the two days ear-marked for our visit to Agumbe. My contact, Mr Sudheendra, in Agumbe had informed me that it is raining. It wasn’t enough to stop us though. So on 13th night we took the bus to Agumbe. Reaching there early morning at around 7.00 am we checked into the hotel. We were ready in no time and waiting for Sudheendra. His arrival did not really bring good news. The rains could make an appearance any time he said. With this in mind and after a short discussion we decided that we would head for Sirimane falls near Sringeri.

It was still pretty early when our guide and driver Ganesh dropped us off at Sirimane waterfalls. I didn’t realize we were the first visitors of the day when I bought the entrance tickets. As I started climbing down the steps my soul suddenly soared at the sight of the magnificent falls. Eyes wide, feet rooted and mouth agape I stared at the water cascading down the rocks. Add to it the fact that there was no one just made the scene absolutely stunning. The next few seconds were a blur. Once I reached the end of the steps I just stood and tried to let it sink in. It did not take long for me to be under the water. After the previous night’s bus journey it was sheer bliss to be standing under the cold water hurtling down with enough force to drive away the blues and the aches & pains from the aging bones.

Was it 10 mins? Was it half an hour? Or had it been more than that? I really don’t know and I don’t really care. I hadn’t felt this good in a long long time. Even the presence of a family of 4 did not deter me from enjoying the natural massage from the waterfalls. With reluctance I finally stepped out of the water and the crowd began to appear and swell. Armed with my camera I tried my best to capture as much of the beauty of the place as possible.

We were just a few minutes away from the famous Sringeri temple. Ganesh dropped us off in front of the temple. After the darshan of Goddess we wandered around, spent a few minutes watching the fishes in the river and then decided it was time for lunch as the time spent in the water had made us very hungry. Simple yet delicious food for lunch meant that we were now exhausted from eating too much.

Making our way back to Agumbe we decided we will go to either Barkana viewpoint or Onake abbi falls. The dark clouds in the sky looked ominous. Jogi gundi it would be we decided. Within a few minutes of walking through the woods the soothing sounds of water could be heard. After the spectacular experience at Sirimane falls it was a completely different feeling that greeted us at Jogi gundi. It was calm, silent and serene. The presence of three youngsters enjoying themselves did very little to blemish the serenity of this place.

Climbing up a rock we managed to see the water gushing through rocks. This is not visible from below and it was a nice sight to see the water making it’s way through the rocks and settle down into a nice little pond below. It was interesting to watch spiders and their webs between the rocks. We did not spend too much time here and we were on our way back pretty soon. Just as well. The lure of world famous Agumbe Sunset was too strong.

Elements of nature had different plans altogether. Sipping a hot cup of coffee we witnessed the heavens open up. There was no way we could now go to the Sunset view point. Holed up in the hotel we reminisced about the days events and were very happy that we were indeed able to do all the things that we did. Just then a green grasshopper caught my eye as it gingerly made it's way on top of the railing as the rains came down heavily.

It was decided to go to Kundadri hills early next morning to see the Sunrise. During my previous visits I had been to this place in the afternoons and it was going to be different this time around. I was eager to witness the Sunrise at this place as I had heard a lot about it from the local people.

Ready and eager we got into the car that would take us to Kundadri hills. When we reached it was still dark and we made our way up the few steps to the top of the hill. A Jain temple dating back to the 17th century stood majestically overlooking the valley. The valley.... ? I wondered where the valley I had seen during my previous visits was. All I could see was a sea of white clouds. Mesmerized I drank in the magnificent sight in the pre dawn twilight.

There was another group which had come to witness the early morning magic. Patiently we stood with our cameras ready. It was soon evident that the clouds were not going to allow us to enjoy the Sunrise. Disappointment writ large on our faces about having missed watching the Sunrise we strolled around. The sight of the white fluffy clouds hanging between us and the ground 3200 feet below however made up for it. We spent a few minutes at the pond where one can find huge fishes of different colors.

If we wanted to go to Koodlu teertha we had to get going and we did. Arriving back at Agumbe we were greeted with some bad news. Because of the heavy rains the previous day the path to Koodlu teertha had become treacherous. We were told that an army of leeches had surfaced and were ready to attack any being which dared to venture into their territory. Quickly finishing breakfast we contemplated on our options for the rest of the day. As we strolled along for a nice early morning walk we discussed whether we still should risk going to Koodlu teertha or should we do Onake abbi. However the visuals of an army of leeches strewn along the paths to these places prompted us to consider other options too. The sight of a vibrantly colored flower distracted us for a few minutes as did the sweet calls of birds.

My friend who is very much into literature was as eager as me if not more to visit Kuppalli, Rashtrakavi Kuvempu’s village. Having made up our mind we decided to take the bus to Teerthahalli and from there another bus to Kuppalli. It was almost as if the buses knew of our plans and we didn’t even have to spend a few minutes waiting for them. Finally when we got off the bus on the main road and we started our 2 kms walk to Kuppalli. Just as we came off a bend in the road something bright red in color on one of the trees caught my attention. As we neared I could not help but take a few photographs of it.

I have seen many a scare-crows in my life. What I saw in one of the fields along the way though made me whip out my camera to take a photograph of it.

We then proceeded and reached the house where Kuvempu was born and brought up. The original house which was built from bricks and mud had been razed to the ground and a new structure built in it’s place. They have maintained the original plan though. Even the wooden pillars are the old ones. Walking through this house which has now been converted into a museum evoked a sense of pride in me. The household articles, photos of the family and friends, awards and certificates bestowed upon Kuvempu and even a few locks of his hair make this place a wonderful experience. The few glimpses into his life one gets to see remains etched in memory for a long time. One addition I found this time around was the statue of Kuvempu which had been installed in the garden.

A shop next to his house was where we quenched our thirst and devoured some snacks before trudging along to Kavishyla. This is the place where Kuvempu used to spend a lot of time alone and also with his friends. It takes just a split second to realize why these eminent giants of the literary world spent long hours at this place.

Stone slabs artistically arranged as arches and gateways lend a unique touch to this place. A simple arrangement of stones marks the final resting place of this giant of a man of the literary world. Nearby is the final resting place of his son Mr Poornachandra Tejasvi who was no less a giant with his exploits not only in the literary world but also in many other fields like environment protection and photography.

Having spent time to our heart’s content we started our way back only to be stopped in our tracks. It started raining cats and dogs. A small thatched structure came to our rescue.

A group of young school kids and their teacher who had come there for a visit too took shelter here. Till the rains abated I spent my time observing these kids and what a wonderful time it was. Their innocence was evident in all it’s glory. Their repartees to each other’s comments were laced with an ample amount of naughtiness. When one of the kids refused to dry his hair a girl went up to him and forcefully dried his hair with her veil. Only later when she called his name did I realize he was a muslim kid and she was a hindu. How much time will take for our elders to corrupt these young pure beautiful minds? I shudder at the thought of how such pure feelings of care and affection for each are going to be destroyed.

We walked back to the main road once the rains stopped. It was a long wait and a few birds kept me running around while we kept craning our necks and ears for the arrival of the bus which would take us to Teerthahalli. Finally the bus arrived and after another long wait we boarded the bus to Agumbe.

We went to the hotel for a hot cup of coffee and the owner informed us that it had rained very heavily and there was abundant proof all around of it. During the conversation he asked if we were leaving the same night. I responded in the affirmative and he asked if we were taking the 8.00 pm bus. I said we were leaving by the 10.00 pm bus. He was surprised and said there is only one bus which leaves at 8.00. My heart skipped a beat and frantically searched for the bus ticket. Voila!!! It was indeed the 8.00 pm bus.

Hearts racing we hurried back to the hotel to pack and settle the bill. Thankfully we had ample time to do all this. After a quick dinner we finally settled down in the bus for our journey back to Bangalore. Thus ended an eventful trip to Agumbe. But not before a promise of visiting this place once again in the near future.

To see all the photos Click Here

Shivanasamudra

On 27th September 2009 we visited the Jayamangali (Maidenahalli) blackbuck sanctuary. I decided against writing a blog about this trip for the simple reason that not even a single blackbuck was seen. Call it bad timing or bad luck, the fact remains that to see the blackbucks another trip will have to be made. It was an eventful drive though considering the birds we spotted and the glorious sunset we saw. Add to that a fatal accident that claimed three lives on the spot on the Tumkur road forcing us to take a detour added some unwanted spice to our journey.

Click here for the photos.

We had waited for a long time for the long weekend of the first week of October. Meticulous planning and bookings had been done to visit the Ranebennur blackbuck sanctuary and Chitradurga fort. The floods in northern part of Karnataka and Andhra however forced us to alter our plans.

Certain people (including people in responsible positions) have attributed this disaster to the wrath of Gods and Goddesses. I am at loss for words to react to such comments and opinions. It is indeed depressing to see the situation we have put ourselves into. Avarice in the name of progress and development is making us pay a heavy price. If this continues, before long the wrath of Mother Nature is going to usurp and destroy all that exists.

Enough of my ramblings, now back to Shivanasamudra. Err… we haven’t even started have we? Well, on 2nd October with the disappointment of not being able to stick to our plans of going to Ranebennur Blackbuck Sanctuary and Chitradurga weighing heavily in our hearts we set off to Shivanasamudra. Kanakpura road it was yet again.

Stopping for birds and butterflies again without worrying about the time felt good. At a small hillock where we went chasing birds we were denied an opportunity to capture them on camera but we were happy to be given an opportunity to click this little guy sitting smugly on a leaf.

As we continued our journey we were treated to a wonderful soothing sight of green fields along the way. There were a few people working in the fields and it was a nice sight to watch.

As expected a huge crowd was thronging the Gaganachukki waterfalls. Threading our way through the crowd we descended the steps to the viewpoint. Above the din of the crowd the sounds of the falls reached us effortlessly. That sure is an indicator to the amount of water in the falls. It was nice to see so much water especially after getting to see only the rocks during a couple of visits in the past. As the water rushed over the edge, inspite of the force, it reminded me of a shy maiden trying to cover her face with a beautiful white veil.

Having spent some time we decided to skip going to the other side where the Dargah is. So off we went to Bharachukki. There is a bridge across the river along the way to Bharachukki. A few birds caught our attention and we stopped. As we walked along the bridge it was a little scary to feel the vibrations every time a vehicle went by. It felt as if the bridge would just collapse any minute. The birds were far away and we could not get a good enough look at them. Walking back to our bike I noticed something on a plant leaf. At first I thought it was dead only to realize that this bug came with it’s own shield.

The number of vehicles parked was an indicator to the number of people at Bharachukki. While walking down the steps it we could see the garbage strewn around by the visitors. The sight was enough to deter us from going all the way down to the water. The sight of the waterfalls was at it’s enticing best though.

A small detour took us to a different part of the falls where it was secluded and relatively peaceful and quiet. Just as we reached the edge of the water a man was getting ready to leave. As if in answer to my question what this man was doing I saw fishes in the throes of death wiggling futilely on the rocks. Once he left we sat down to enjoy the waterfalls for some time.

A raucous group of youngsters who appeared on the other side soon forced us to wade our way back through the crowd. Pretty soon we were on our way back to Bangalore and I was happy to hear my friend exclaim that it was a good outing. The Shivanasamudra falls washed away the disappointment of our original plan being shelved to an extent.

For photos Click Here

To Bekal on a bike

To go for a long bike ride was a long time dream of mine. A holiday on 18th September meant that the long weekend provided the perfect opportunity to realize this dream. Choosing a destination wasn’t difficult. Bekal in God’s own country had been on our To Do list for a long time. However deciding on the route to take gave us enough headaches. The options were to either go via Hassan or go via Mysore-Madikeri. Receiving contradictory pieces of information regarding the state of the roads made matters all the more worse. Finally we decided to take the Hassan route on our way to Bekal and come back via Madikeri-Mysore road.

We started our journey at 2 pm on 17th September. Taking the NICE road from the Bannerghatta road side we reached Magadi town in fairly quick time. Though rains were in the mood for a game of hide and seek it did not hamper our journey much. We continued our journey after a quick stop for a photograph of the remains of a fort built by Kempegowda in Magadi town. In the Markonahalli dam trip report I have mentioned about this.

The plan was to reach Hassan and if possible Sakleshpur before dark. Hence we did not stop for either birds or beautiful sights as is our usual tendency. At the bus stop in front of Adichunchanagiri Institute of Medical Sciences we stopped for a cup of coffee. The overcast skies threatened to open up and we scurried on our bike in an attempt to avoid getting drenched. Alas!!! It was not to be. Just 20 kms before Hassan near a small village called Dindiganahalli it started raining cats and dogs. Well you can add a few other quadrupeds too to the list. I could barely see a few feet ahead. We took shelter in a bus stop on the roadside. We waited in vain for the rains to let up. Finally, our patience having run out, we decided to put on our ponchos and head for Hassan as the rains abated just a little bit.

It was past 7.00 pm when we reached Hassan and the search for a place to stay for the night started. We were completely drenched. A guy walking in with a helmet in hand, dripping wet , wearing blue rain pants, blue poncho and wearing a green bandana surely must have made the hotel guys wonder. After some searching we finally managed to find a room in Hotel Abhiruchi. It was a decent hotel and the service was good. We retired for the day after having a simple dinner at the hotel downstairs.

It is a known fact that the Shiradi ghat roads are in bad condition. The Shiradi ghats had been closed for a few days just recently for clearing the boulders. Mentally preparing ourselves for the ordeal we set off after breakfast. We reached Sakleshpur in pretty good time. After a quick coffee break and a little bit of wandering around in Sakleshpur we proceeded with a plan to reach Kasargod by late afternoon.

As soon as we hit the Shiradi ghats two factors prompted us to stop for a few photographs. Firstly in a bid to reach Hassan before it gets dark we had driven without stopping much to take any photographs. Secondly the sheer beauty surrounding us was too difficult to pass up. I whipped out my camera to shoot and my heart sank. The shutter at the back of my camera was open and I realized that the locking mechanism had broken. A cry of anguish escaped my throat and my friend looked at me questioningly. On learning what had happened I could see the look of disappointment. My SLR camera, my companion in almost all of my trips and treks was now unusable. My friend asked me if I wanted to go back but I decided to carry on as I didn’t want this one disaster to decide the fate of our trip. Only solace was that we still had the digital camera.

After taking a few minutes to come to grips with the damage to my camera I started my bike and hit the Shiradi ghats. As expected the road condition was bad. Weaving in and around the potholes we progressed slowly. The huge oil tankers that were groaning along further slowed us down. Not wanting to stop lest we get delayed we soldiered on without capturing some of the beautiful sights we saw along the way. After a considerable amount of time we finally decided to take a break for coffee at one of the road side shops. The person at the shop told us that Shiradi ghat section was over and we breathed a sigh of relief. We were to soon find out that our dreams of now being able to ride faster would be crushed cruelly.

Pretty close to Mangalore we were halted in our tracks by a very interesting looking church. We took a few snaps before proceeding towards Kasargod.

The roads didn’t seem to get better at all. The dark clouds adorning the sky warned us of another impending downpour. We were still quite some distance away from Kasargod. With each passing minute it looked unlikely that we would make it to Kasargod. All of a sudden we had to look for a shelter as the rains started lashing. A small garage was what we found and we ran towards it. Within a few seconds we realized that it was leaking too. Dancing around to avoid the water droplets falling on our heads we finally decided to go inside the garage itself. We probably would have been better off sitting inside the auto rickshaws that were standing there for repair.

Have you ever been on a roller coaster ride? No, not the ones you find in theme parks. A roller coaster ride while riding a bike. Have you ever had a camel ride on a bike? If not, all you have to do is ride a bike on this road.

After what seemed like an interminable wait the rains abated just that little and we once again put on our rain gear and started off. By the time we hit the outskirts of Mangalore not only were we drenched but the torturous ride on the road ridden potholes (yep, you read that right) had taken it’s toll on our bodies. It felt as if the limbs were just about ready to fall off. I might be mistaken but I think I heard the insides of our bones rattling. It was getting dark too. It was still raining and it probably was a good decision that we decided to check into a hotel. Hotel Pentagon it was. The choice of hotel was not such a good decision though.

With hopes of a hot water bath to combat the bitter cold caused by getting drenched in the heavy rains were soon dashed. The phone in the room was not working. The hot water that they gave was at the most tepid. Since it was still raining and going out for a stroll was ruled out. I made a quick visit to the gate to take a couple of photographs. It was then time for an early dinner. We went to sleep early to make up for the lost time.

It is just about 50 kms to Kasargod. It shouldn’t have taken more than 90 minutes but it was not to be. Tall coconut trees swaying to the winds and the absolutely green cover announced our arrival in God’s own country. After this bike ride I know why it is called God’s own country. God doesn’t have to travel on a bike; he can go TINGGGG… just like that to any place he wants; like in those old movies.

Finally on reaching Kasargod our next ordeal began, the search for a hotel. In one of the hotels I went in to enquire, the overly suspicious man behind the reception first of all said that we don’t look like Indians. If Indians don’t look like Indians to an Indian I wonder who would look like Indians to this Indian. On speaking to him in Kannada his next line of questioning began. Where was I from? What am I doing here? What is my relationship with my friend? Where are we going? Arrgggghhhhhh… his tone was exceptionally good at getting on my nerves and I walked out of there without even telling him I didn’t want a room in his hotel.

Diametrically opposite in his behavior was the man at Speedway Inn. He was very courteous and we took a room. I can’t decide whether that was a good decision or not. It was a new hotel, the staff members were very good and helpful but a strong smell in the room was quite oppressive. It seemed better when the air freshener was sprayed all over the room. We quickly dumped our luggage and got ready to go visit Bekal fort.

On the way to Bekal fort is Chandragiri fort and we decided to visit this place. The fort was built by Shivappa Nayaka. Bekal fort was also built by him. Today, except for the fort walls, nothing remains. By the time the Archaeological society of India took over this fort in 1986 the damage had already been done. This is not a huge fort by any means and it probably was built for defense purposes more than anything else. It does offer a great view though. One gets to see Chandragiri river join the Arabian sea. There is a railway track and we were lucky enough to catch a train pass by.

A leisurely stroll along the fort walls revealed a well and a place which had been built to store water. A watch tower has been constructed inside the fort walls recently and it stands out like a sore thumb. Some benches have also been put there probably for the visitors and it is a sad sight. We also saw what looked like a secret tunnel. However it turned out a resting place and we were told that it is about 4 mts deep.

We left for Bekal fort soon after. It was strange that we could not find many restaurants. We had our lunch at a non-descript kind of hotel and continued towards Bekal. At last we reached Bekal fort. As we entered the fort after buying the entrance tickets the first thing that caught my eye was the watch tower which was being repaired. Compared to Chandragiri fort this one was quite huge. But yet again this fort was for defense purposes and one does not find any remains of a palace.

The Arabian Sea right next offers a splendid view. This is the same fort which was captured splendidly in the song “Tu hi re” by Maniratnam in the movie Bombay. Walking along the fort walls, taking in the greenery all around, seeing the vast expanse of the sea merge with the sky, breathing in the smells of grass and the sea water and just sitting on the fort wall, letting the place engulf you and transport you to a world of intrigue and calmness… it is a lovely experience.

Sitting on the fort wall and leaning over I noticed 3 young people strolling along on the sands and collecting something. I wish I knew what they were collecting. The waves gently splashing against the boulders as they went about enjoying themselves was a pretty sight.

While walking around I saw something fly past us and sit on a tall blade of grass. Its brilliant yellow color on the wings drew me towards it. As I sat down gingerly so as to not disturb it had completely transformed into a drab grey / lightish brown insect. I wish I had managed to capture this insect with its wings open.

Having walked around and spent a considerable amount of time we finally decided to leave. Just outside the fort was a shop selling cold drinks and eatables. What caught my eye though were plastic containers with fruits. There were a couple of containers with gooseberries. Another had mango slices. The lady said that they are kept in saltwater. Maybe I should have tried but foolishly we had already bought cold drinks. When the lady later mentioned they also had lemon juice I wished I could kick myself.

The Bekal beach park is just few minutes away. It is not easy to pass up an opportunity to walk on the beach. Entrance tickets and camera charges as usual but thankfully we were not asked if we are Indians. The park that greeted us was to say the least disappointing. A view of the Bekal fort made things a little better.

There were very few people and some of them were trying to have a good time playing in the water. A blanket of dark clouds dashed any hopes of seeing the Sun set for the day.

Impending rains forced us to leave and head back to Kasargod. Not wanting to get stuck in the rains yet again and the rapidly darkening skies prompted us to decide against going to Kappil beach. However the rains were not considerate enough and we had to take shelter in one of the bus stands. The incessant rains and the darkening skies quickly exhausted our patience and it was time for the rain gear yet again.

Driving carefully, making every attempt to avoid the potholes and ditches we continued towards Kasargod. What happened next was like a fast forward action from a movie. There was a truck coming from the opposite direction. A car was overtaking the truck. The narrow roads meant that the car was almost at the right edge of the road. The next thing I realized was that a guy on a 500 cc bike had squeezed past the car in an attempt to overtake it. It was sheer luck that I managed to swerve just in time to avoid being hit. Well… God’s own country, Devil’s own roads.

We finally reached the hotel, took a quick shower and came out for dinner. It was still raining. So we decided to have dinner at Indian Coffee house in the same building as our hotel. Having already been drenched once, we did not dare to venture out again after dinner and retired for the day.

Technically speaking we had 2 more days. But the experience we had driving to Kasargod had made us quite skeptical about being able to reach Bangalore by Monday evening. So we decided not to risk it and start early in the morning so that we were left with a short distance to cover on Monday.

It was a foregone conclusion that we would not ride back to Bangalore by the route we had taken. So it was via Madikeri – Mysore for our journey back. After reaching Cherkala we asked around for the directions to Jalsoor. One gentleman showed us two routes, one which was through Mulleri. We took this road and pretty soon we were snaking our way through lush greenery. The narrow winding roads were both a test and joy to ride. With one break for coffee we continued not daring to waste time taking photographs along the way.

By around noon we had managed to reach Madikeri. Stopping once more for coffee and some lovely daal vadas we discussed about what to do next. It was becoming extremely difficult to find a good place where we could stop and do some sightseeing. So we decided to keep going and see what comes up.

Pushing ourselves to stay on the bike for as long as possible meant that our bodies began to scream at being subjected to such harsh treatment. Pretty soon we were on Mysore road and I began to drive faster. A real test of patience, driving skills and endurance levels it was. By around 7.00 pm having covered close to 400 kms in less than 11 hrs we reached Bangalore.

Thus fell the curtains on an interesting and yet a disappointing trip.

Want to see the photos of this trip? Click here

Mekedaatu

Sunday 6th September, 2009… a week after the Pondicherry or was it Gingee trip. (Check the previous post). I was still trying to shake off the jitters in my bones induced by the bus drivers. This time we had decided to knock off one item off the ‘Had gone but have to come back again’ list. Mekedaatu it was. Early morning chill could have easily kept me in bed till the Sun came directly above the head but by 7.30 we were ready to hit the road. Remembering the condition of the roads at various places I would love to hit the road with a sledge hammer; provided I can spot a piece of the road somewhere. Need I mention breakfast was at Adigas since we would be heading on the Kanakapura road?

For a little while, in comparison to the previous week’s experience, it felt like a ride on the clouds sailing by in the sky. THUD!!! Gddrrrrr… thud. Welcome back to reality. Yes, ditches.

Stopping for a cup of hot coffee another stark reality hit us. During the ride to Pondicherry we never had to drink coffee / tea from a thermos even once. But back in Karnataka we were now subjected to having to drink coffee / tea from thermos flasks. I wish these stalls and small hotels would revert to the old style of making coffee and tea.

Kanakapura came and the road (which doesn’t exist now) desperately tried to shake our bones out of our bodies. Successfully negotiating the dust bowl created by the road widening exercise probably is one of the prerequisites for applying for a job in a circus. Taking the left turn at Satanur we reached Doddaalahalli. Here one has to take a turn to go towards Mekedaatu. There are signboards and that is why we yet again took a wrong turn and had to turn back.

Zooming past the now familiar hills, trees, houses and lot of other things I realized there weren’t too many birds to bring my bike to a skidding halt like it usually happens. The overcast skies had sent the birds scurrying for cover I guess. Finally we did stop when calls of a few birds managed to reach our ears. Apart from the mynas, crows, sparrows, doves these were the first birds we saw. Wagtails, robins, sunbirds were all there. There was also this tiny black and white bird which did not give us a clear enough look for us to be able to identify. They were too jittery and scurried for cover the moment they sensed our presence. We also saw a mountain far away and dark clouds adorning the sky.

We reached Sangama and I saw that the place was not crowded as yet. There are coracles to take people to the other side so as to be able to reach Mekedaatu. Rs. 40 per head is the charge for the coracle ride. There were people wading through the water but we took the coracle. On reaching the other side we saw a bus waiting for passengers to take them to Mekedaatu which was 4-5 kms away. Looking at the condition of the bus a series of questions exploded. How old was this bus? Is it still in running condition? Don’t the parts fall off when the engine starts? How long had it been since the last wash and service?

Since it was only 4-5 kms we wanted to walk. All the while it had been very cloudy but just as we started our walk the Sun started beating down on us. Talk about being on the shorter side. It was a wise decision to walk though. It gave the opportunity to see and experience things which would not have been possible sitting in an about to disintegrate bus.

Along the way it was sad to see a board put up by the friends of a young man who had drowned taking unwanted risks in the water. It is well known that there are dangerous whirlpools and add to it the jagged rocks with sharp edges. Is it the exuberance of youth alone or utter disregard for the warning signboards? Whatever it be, it is sad that so many lives have been lost here at this place. The guy in the coracle told us that just last week two boys died. Their relatives coughed up 35 thousand rupees to have their bodies retrieved.

Sitting on the rocks by the side of the gently flowing Cauvery it is easy to be transported to a world of beauty, elegance and serenity. The calm waters, the green cover, mountains in the far background and the mist even at noon can captivate a soul a million times within a blink of an eye.

Continuing our walk towards Mekedaatu we also saw what looked like mini waterfalls. Here we saw the first glimpses of the ferocious nature of the waters here. Smashing against the rocks it broke up into a thousand pearls and flew into the air garlanding Mother Nature for her blessings.

My friend spotted a Crimson tip butterfly. Birds and butterflies have this unique capability to shave a few years off one’s age and make them young. They make you walk slowly and stealthily with bated breath and open your eyes wide in awe. If and when they sit slightest of the movements or sounds makes them fly away in a jiffy denying any possibility of capturing their beauty on camera.

There were two buses in fact and one did not even have a windshield. Such was the condition of the buses. Apart from these buses there is absolutely no other vehicle. Yet the bus drivers took joy in honking the horn all the time. One can never understand why. For my friend and me it was frustrating because the butterflies would fly away at this horrible sound of the horn.

Just then a tree caught our attention. At first it looked like gum of the tree had accumulated forming a lumpy mass. On closer inspection it was found to be fungus. It’s color and texture gave it a creepy feeling.

A man was selling buttermilk while another one was selling water bottles and soft drinks. A glass of buttermilk felt divine after having been subjected to Rahu’s heat onslaught for about an hour. Errr… I mean Sun, my friend called him Rahu for his mercilessness throughout the walk.

One has to climb down a few steps and tread across a small patch of sand before reaching the gorge. People were milling around enjoying the sights around in their own ways. Some were shouting, few were busy getting photographed and the others were eating and littering the place.

Walking on the rocks we ventured as close to the edge as possible. The rocks were smooth as a baby’s skin at many places owing to the water splashing it for centuries. Interesting shapes had been carved out into the rocks by the gentle looking yet ferocious Cauvery. Gaping holes and arches caught our eyes all around.

We sat on the rocks and spent some time enjoying the water flowing below us. The crowd had started building up and we decided it was time to return.

Seeing the two of us walk a group of boys decided that they will walk too. I heard one of them say "when those older people can walk why not us". Hmmm age does catch up pretty fast. All the more reason to live life and do things that the heart desires. The walk back yet again proved fruitful for the number of butterflies and other insects we saw. Just before we reached Sangama I saw a path and decided to take it. A huge meadow and a lot of birds greeted us.

Chasing the birds proved futile as they all flew away the moment they saw me approaching. But flowers and insects were more accomodative and allowed me to take a few photographs.

We crossed over to the other bank in the coracle and realized that the crowd size had increased considerably. We started our ride back to Bangalore. Intermittent showers meant that our ride was interrupted a couple of times. We reached home safely and pretty early too. End of another weekend.

To see all the photos from this trip Click Here

Pondicherry - or was it Gingee trip?

Pre-requisites for applying for a bus drivers’ job:
1. Should have been an inmate of a mental asylum for at least 6 months
2. Should drive above 60 kmph no matter what the road conditions
3. Should drive only on the right side of the road
4. Should always overtake every possible vehicle on the road, doesn’t matter from which side
5. Should give heart attacks to at least 25 drivers of the oncoming vehicles
6. Should force the drivers of the oncoming vehicles off the road

A biker in his blog had written that one can find everything on the road that is not supposed to be there and I did not believe it until I myself experienced it. The roads were good except in patches but the driving experience was far from enjoyable and relaxing. The scorching heat to add to it made matters worse. Having to push my bike for almost 2 kms in this scorching heat… well… you can imagine.

Pondicherry was the destination for 29th and 30th August weekend. Leaving at 5.00 am in the morning brought with it the expectation of not finding much traffic. A few lorries and tankers had other ideas. A stunning Sunrise gave rise to hopes of a wonderful day ahead.

The turn towards Pondicherry was soon after taking a left after Krishnagiri. A few bird calls reached our ears while cruising along this road. On inspection we saw a few babblers. The call was not that of babblers though. Quietly tip toeing into the thickets brought into view a few small green billed Malkohas. What a sight it was. Unfortunately could not get a shot of it though the camera was ready in the hands. Another unidentified bird has given a few sleepless nights.

Breakfast at Chengam gave the much required energy to continue the journey towards Tiruvannamalai. The hill and the temple were visible from a distance. After a pleasant experience in the temple in Lepakshi it was time for some reality. The priests demanding money as dakshina destroyed whatever little feelings of devotion existed. The long wait in the queue and the pushing and jostling to get darshan of Lord Arunachaleshwar is what remains in memory. Instead it should have been the huge premises of the temple, the towering towers, the innumerable number of pillars inside, the vast spaces inside the temple compound and the Shivling itself. It takes all kinds to make this world they say.

From the cool climes of Bangalore to the scorching heat was not expected. Being monsoon time some amount of rain was expected but it was not to be. Water, tender coconuts and soft drinks were to become our saviors for two days.

Gingee soon beckoned. There are three forts on three hills; the Rajagiri fort (the King’s fort), Krishnagiri fort (the Queen’s fort) and Chandragiri fort (the Cobbler’s fort). We turned right from the main road having decided to climb Rajagiri fort first. The Kalyana Mahal, it’s white and height caught the eyes. It was used as a stable. It has a series of cells.


Proceeding towards the fort I parked my bike under a tree where a person collected money and issued a parking ticket. The entrance ticket costs Rs.5 per person. As in most places the rates for Indians and foreigners is different. Somehow this concept has never held water for me. Just because a person is from another country why do these people charge them 10 times the amount or some times even 20 times the amount they charge for Indians?

As soon as one enters the main gate a view of an almost non existent palace greets the visitors. A stone platform with a stone pillow is the only reminder of the palace. The sprawling space does compel one to try and imagine what must have been.

A gymnasium, magazine (a place where the arms and ammunitions were stored), granary have withstood the test of time though. Walking into the granary one will begin to wonder how much grains must have been stored here. It also begs one to ask questions how those people managed it. A circular hole in the roof cast a circle of light on the floor. It is difficult to explain the nice feeling of awe it evoked.

The Sun beating down mercilessly raised doubts about being able to reach the top of the fort. Soldiering on bravely we were glad we did not give up. We were treated to some magnificent views. The Kalyana Mahal, Krishnagiri fort, a temple, a mosque partly hidden, green fields, the roads and hills all around energize the climbers.


A baby monkey clinging on to its mother as it sat with another monkey was a lovely sight. The look of peace and contentment on the face of the baby monkey with its eyes closed is better seen than explained with words.

Feeling drained and burned out we sat down on a few steps only to realize there is a temple just ahead. There was another temple along the way. What catches the eyes here are two Ganesha idols on either side of the entrance. Three tridents (Thrishuls) stood just behind a huge circular stone resting on a square stone platform. Sadly there was no one to explain the significance of these.

The view of the green fields and the trees certainly helps one to climb on such a sweltering hot day. A treasury mantapam can be seen after reaching the top. All that remains is an almost dilapidated structure of stone pillars with a roof on it. Closing my eyes I tried to imagine the treasurer sitting somewhere in this structure and distributing money. Hmmm… money

Having spent some time sitting here we decided to start climbing down. Our bodies were screaming for some cold fluids. In spite of that it was just not possible to not stop at a canon that stood proudly. How many times must it have fired? How many times had it saved this fort and how many times had it failed to protect the inhabitants of this fort?

Intriguingly shaped rocky hill instigates one to conjure up images while passing by. I could see human faces and wondered what else one can imagine by looking at these shapes.

Finally the torturous, energy zapping, fluid sapping climb came to an end. We ran as fast as we could… well make that crawled as fast as we could…. towards a man selling cold drinks. His name was Selvaraj. Sipping on the cold drink I tried conversing with this man in my broken tamil. (I can assure you it is as broken as it can get). This man, from a neighboring village, was afflicted by polio and yet here he was selling cold drinks. He gave us information about the forts and talked to us generally. His smiling demeanor and his zeal to live life fully warmed the cockles of my heart.

As if the arduous climb in the scorching Sun was not enough a disaster awaited us. The rear wheel of my bike was punctured. How it happened was a mystery. The person guarding the vehicles informed me there was a puncture shop on the main road just a little ahead. Left with no choice but to push the 140+ Kgs of metal I began my slow walk towards the puncture shop. An autorickshaw driver asked me what happened. On being told that the tyre was punctured he asked if I had been to the Gingee fort. To my affirmative answer he said that it was the people at the two wheeler stand who must have done it. Completely drained and limbs screaming from the strenuous work out they were getting, I could only muster up a mild rage. After coming back to Bangalore another friend told me that it was a common practice which he thought had stopped. What could have been a good experience was now pretty close to being a nightmare.

The just a little ahead was close to 2 kms. I could hardly stand as the boy set about the task of patching the puncture in the tyre. Plopping down in a chair I was literally gasping for breath. When my friend brought a cold bottle of water and a cold pepsi I could only manage a few gulps. Anybody who wants to visit Gingee fort on their bikes, please don’t park near the Rajagiri fort entrance.

The delay at Tiruvannamalai temple, the climb to the top of the Rajagiri fort in the scorching heat and then the puncture upset our schedule completely. According to the original plan we should have reached Pondicherry latest by 4.00 pm. I can hardly remember anything other than the scary bus drivers and the dustbowl roads for the rest of the journey towards Pondicherry. It was past 7.30 pm when we finally reached Pondicherry. It was a sinking feeling to realize that the YHAI hostel where I had booked a room was another 16 kms away. Having had lunch as late as 5.00 pm and the completely draining experiences left just enough energy for a bath and crashing onto the bed for the night.

An early morning visit to the beach was planned. Alas…it was not to be. Tiredness induced sleep kept me in bed till late. Cuddalore beach was abou t 4 kms from the youth hostel. So we decided to have breakfast and see the beach before heading back to Pondicherrry. It was a nice breakfast at Ananda Bhavan. We reached the beach after asking around for directions.

A lovely sight greeted us. A family of four was at the beach enjoying the sea waves. The father was encouraging the son and daughter to fall down on the sand to allow the waves to take them to the shore. Mother stood on the beach watching her children play. They kept throwing the beach ball into the water and would run to get it. It was wonderful to see what was happening.

Having spent some time on the beach we decided to head back to Pondicherry. The question was now to whether visit the beach or the Ashram. We also wanted to visit Auroville. We also knew that we didn’t have time for all of it. Only one was possible. Finally we decided to visit Auroville. On Sundays the place is closed for visitors in the afternoon. Barely half an hour was available when we reached the Visitor’s centre. Having collected the pass we hurried towards the Matrimandir. It is a truly magnificent sight, the Matrimandir.

We sat down for some time under the more than 100 years old banyan tree and watched people from all part of the world. Within a few minutes the place was almost empty and we knew we had to start our journey back to Bangalore.

On our onward journey we had been unable to take photos of the hill behind the Arunachaleshwar temple. So we stopped and took photos. Just as we left the town of Tiruvannamalai Rain Goddess decided we had had too much of Sun and she came pouring down. Within a couple of minutes the downpour was so heavy that the road, just a few feet away, was not even visible. Sitting inside the small roadside hotel we waited patiently.

After almost an hour the rain abated and we started back knowing fully well that we would have to drive in total darkness. As if to compensate for the delay and the troubles we had during the trip we were treated to a very B-E-A-utiful Sunset.

Finally Bangalore greeted us and we stopped at the Anekal cross for a late dinner. We finally reached home bringing the curtains down on yet another weekend of adventure.

To view all the photos from this trip Click Here